Shabby Blog

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Burn, Baby, Burn: Las Fallas, 2012







Valencia, March 18th-19th

Las Fallas is arguably one of the most insane annual festivals Spain has to offer... and that says a lot. Even some Spaniards are astonished by the traditions of this country. Every year in March, the community of Valencia commemorates San José by building giant paper maché statues (called fallas), putting them on display for a few days all around the city, and turning them into giant torches on March 19th as the festival comes to an end. The fallas are also entered into a city-wide competition, the winner of which is spared from the night of burning (Mascletà). There is usually some kind of satirical tone to the sculptures which keeps the festival current and ever so entertaining.

Since this is an extremely popular few days to spend in Valencia and a near impossible time to find a hostel for a night, Margaret, Amanda, and I decided to make it an all-nighter. We left Madrid on the 8:30am train, spent the next 24 hours experiencing all Las Fallas had to offer, and hopped back on the train the next morning. I'm confident in saying that will be the LAST time I take on a travel-challenge like that. We had a good time and I'm really glad we went, but I'm getting too old for the 24-hour-no-sleeping-just-drinking kind of thing.







On the metro ride to the beach from the train station, we experienced our first traditionally dressed Valencianas sighting.
Here's a better look: 

Then we headed to the beach and grabbed a bite at the world's most aggravating restaurant. Fortunately, the playa was close enough to pacify us unhappy campers.  





The city was completely decked out in Fallas decorations and lights. I wish  we were there longer so I could have seen more of Valencia aside from the locura that is Las Fallas!





So here is one of the big sculptures on display in the big town square. This one was built by the ayuntamiento (local government) with the intention of being burned, per tradition- it's not even entered into the competition. This one was about 2 or 3 stories tall and attracted quite a crowd. Impresionante, no?





Here are some more photos of my favorite fallas. There were dozens scattered about the neighborhoods of Valencia. They were all incredibly intricate and loaded with satire.


Recognize him?









This one was a personal favorite- it featured altered versions of dozens of different fairy tales and classic childhood stories.


















Here are some Valencianos dropping some mad beats in the street to keep the energy flowing late into the night.







When we really needed a breather, who else could we have turned to for a coffee, a restroom, and a place to sit and primp for as many hours as we pleased? Starbucks.

This is where we prepared out "night looks." Remember, we were homeless on this trip and had to be resourceful!



Margaret's cartoon depiction of our Starbucks shenanigans. It's really fun to watch this girl doodle.

We caught the big fireworks show of Las Fallas because we arrived on the Noche de Fuego. 

These people are pyromaniacs. The display was really nice over the river but the hoodlums igniting those scary fireballs that zoom around unpredictably at a million miles per hour in the middle of large crowds were a little more than we'd bargained for. We escaped death more than once... or at least severe reconstructive cosmetic surgery. It was fun, though. We were in a terror/adrenaline-induced laughing stupor on our way through the crowds the whole night.

Unfortunately, the next night was the night they burned the Fallas. We couldn't have stayed for that night because we all had to be at work bright and shiny then next day- but here's what it looked like:

Madness, right?! I can't tell you how disappointed I was that we couldn't see this part... but we had such a good time regardless.

The rest of the night was just an exhausting combination of bebidas, dancing, and freezing our culos off. A few words of wisdom to anyone interested in checking this amazing festival out: book a hostel in advance like a normal person, make sure you stay for the burning, and if your waiter's name is Richy... RUN!

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