The Chronicles of Marnia

Here we are at the start of my last month as a Madrileña and the bittersweet symphony has started to play. I'm trying to stay focused on the here and now but it's hard to do with the stresses of moving to NYC knocking at my door. But I digress. Let's talk about some more fun Madrid-ongoings, instead. 

San Isidro is the patron saint of Madrid and celebrated accordingly as yet another school holiday. For this special day in May, the 15th, the people of Madrid dress up in traditional garb and spend the day at the pradera, the riverside park. Matt and I decided to take a stroll down the Rio Manzanares to see what the festivities were all about. 

Puente San Isidro

It was a perfect spring day to spend exploring a new part of Madrid. I'm not sure why it took us so long to find but it quickly became one of my favorite Madrid hangouts. The river is quite small (hardly a river if you ask me) but a new park was recently built along either side and it took this unimpressive body of water to the next level. As part of a massive urban renewal project, the big highway in Madrid that that circumnavigates the whole city, the M30,  was built underground over the course of 8-10 years. Above this new tunnel where so much noise and pollution is now confined, they put in a lovely park complete with modern bridges, a sprinkler park, tire swings, a 7k bike path, and plenty of lounging space.

Puente de Perrault

After 3 miles of walking and at least as many hours of lounging, we finally made it to the big festival complete with all the carny rides and games you could dream of. The only tragic difference I noticed between this fair and those I remember from the states was the food- nope, not one funnel cake in sight. There were plenty of patatas bravas
and bocadillos de jamón



but it didn't feel right. There's just something so wholesome about scarfing down fried dough covered in so much powdered sugar that you can't even see what you're eating anymore after spinning endlessly on a ride called "The Cyclone" all the while concerned that those few moments of twisting and turning in the air restrained by only a rusty harness might be your last.







After our visit to the fair, Matt, Albert, and I wandered to Sol where we paid a visit to one of the oldest bakeries in Madrid- El Riojano, 1855. Of all the delicacies on display, I chose this decadent raspberry compote pastry for the win! It was so buttery and flaky packing all the flavorful tartness of 100 fresh raspberries.

In Sol that day, as well as many other days this month, 15-M was holding a demonstration. 15-M, also known as El Movimiento de los Indignados, is a big movement in Spain beginning on the 15th of May, 2011 to promote the improvement of the democratic system. This is one of the original sociopolitical movements that later evolved into the "Occupy_____" movements that we Americans know and love today. This group has been known to stake out Puerta del Sol, the major square in Madrid, for months at a time to make their point loud and clear. 

We find ourselves in the middle of a huge economic crisis in Spain making for a rocky road in politics- it's interesting to see how the people handle the situation but I'm glad that I'm not officially a part of it all.

The expat life is a simple life. 
We work a little, play a lot.
I can't think of one single reason to complain.
The only difficulty we face is the impending finale of this inexplicably Utopian year abroad together.

Happiness is a warm summer's night spent with amigos

Pinto

I was long overdue for a visit to Margaret's neck of the woods- Pinto, a pueblo in southern Madrid. I can't believe it was my first time making the journey. Pinto has some amazing tricks up its sleeve that I was missing out on all this time... not to mention the silver-platter opportunity for some quality time with my long lost amiga.

As part of the grand tour, Margaret first brought me to the town hall square where a map of the area can be found in the grooves of the cement. I thought this was a really unique (and convenient) touch of character!

Then we were off to Parque Juan Carlos I - Pinto's shiniest gem. I am always impressed by how nice the parks are in Madrid and this one really put the cream cheese frosting on the red velvet cake.

We had been hiking around the park for a bit when we stumbled upon the peacock pen. I had already decided that peacocks were my favorite animal, but I didn't know just how excited I would be to see them this close up in all their regal glory. Margaret mentioned she's never seen so many of these guys with their feathers all spread out. I like to think they were putting on a special show for us... or maybe it was just mating season. 

As much as I loved this experience, I still find it really sad to see birds in a cage. They should be 

born free, as free as the wind blows.

A masterpiece of an animal

 

















                                     

Pavoreal albino

Have you ever seen a peacock from behind? Even their tushies are fancy.

Telaraña

When I turned around and started walking away, a chorus of peacocks started squawking and rustling their feathers. They didn't want me to leave, I'm sure. We had a connection.

I probably could have stayed there taking pictures and admiring the magnificent creatures for hours...

But adventure was calling our names and we had to be on our way! First we came across the giant adult-sized jungle gym and didn't hesitate a moment before climbing our way to the top. This one was maybe 2.5-3 stories high, it's hard to say. 
Either way, it's always fun to wear my I'm-a-kid-still hat.

Beyond the park gates is where the real adventure lies. On our way to the secret place Margaret wanted to show us, now referred to as Marnia, we spotted these giant silos full of high quality olive oil... only in Spain, right?

First, we had to go through the sketchy, uninviting back gate and cross a rusty bridge over the train tracks. Suddenly, the landscape opened up and there were miles of pristine grassland freckled with red wildflowers as far as the eye could see. We were awe-stricken by the flawless view.

     Marnia

     

Once we'd had our fill (as if that were possible) we took the trail back into the park. The sun was getting ready to set and we realized that it was ice cream o'clock on the dot.

We stopped by an helados shop near Margaret's apartment and sampled some delicious interpretations of the frozen treat. On my barquillo, I enjoyed a scoop of Kinder (a popular brand of German chocolate-turned-ice-cream flavor) and Cielo, which literally means Heaven. It was bright blue but don't let that fool you- this simple yet exquisite flavor was everything ice cream should aspire to be.

Side-note

With all of the anxiety and melancholy nagging at me about leaving this perfect little Spanish life of mine behind in a month, I am truly looking forward to my move to New York City. And in case I had briefly forgotten the reasons why, the universe planted a New York City Tour Guide libro on the bookshelf in one of my favorite neighborhood cafes. It caught my eye while I was stirring my café con leche and I had to pick it up. I felt a new surge of anticipation when flipping through the pages- especially in the "What to eat" section where you can find an unabridged list of NY's most important delicacies including the egg cream, NY cheesecake, and bagel with cream cheese. 

And what do you know? There's a spread about Columbia University and all the beautiful things to see on and around the campus. This is exactly what I needed in this antsy time of an approaching transition. The year in Spain that has been flying by was nothing short of incredible and I know that my next year in New York will bring just as much happiness and inspiration.